There is so much to see and do at the Bristol Harbourside – in recent years, it has become a playground for locals and tourists alike. It is a must see for anyone interested in maritime history. And it is also very scenic, with the sparkling river views, boats, museums, art galleries and eclectic places to eat. The Harbourside loop walk takes you all the way round – so you can start your visit at any point. Plus there are ferries, with stopping off points all along the quayside.
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Floating Harbour
It’s fascinating to learn how the course of the River Avon was completely changed to create the Floating Harbour, during the 19th century. This allowed boats to stay floating, even when the tidal flow of the river was low.
The Bristol Channel has the second highest tidal range in the world. The Bay of Fundy in Canada has the highest. Where the River Avon meets the Bristol Channel, the difference between high and low tide can be as much as 14 metres. And at the entrance to the main harbour, at Cumberland Basin’s Entrance Lock, it reaches 11 metres.
The difference between high and low tide changes throughout the month, according to the phases of the moon. During a full or new moon, known as a spring tide, the range is at its most extreme. When the tide was high, ships could come all the way into the city centre, which was good for trade. However, during lower tides, known as Neap tides, ships couldn’t sail down the river, as the water wasn’t deep enough. And in low tide, ships in the harbour got stranded in the mud.
If they tipped over, the vessel and cargo could be damaged. This gave rise to the saying – ‘Shipshape and Bristol Fashion,’ meaning that the hulls of the ships were strengthened, and the cargo was stowed in a way that prevented damage.
Victorian engineers, including Brunel, designed an intricate series of steam powered sluices, called underfalls, and lock gates to keep the water at a safe level, and remove silt. These are still working, now powered by electricity. A channel called the New Cut, nearly two miles long, was excavated to allow surplus river water to by-pass the Floating Harbour. The land in between was named Spike Island.
Underfall Yard
My favourite starting point for exploring the Bristol Harbourside is Underfall Yard, an historic boat yard, as this gives a glimpse into the history of the working docks. Underfall Yard has been designated as a Scheduled Monument, giving it the same legal status and protection as Stonehenge. It was awarded Heritage Lottery Funding, to conserve the buildings, and create the Visitor Centre and café, situated in the old boiler room.
It originally housed steam hydraulic pumps which supplied power to a network of lock gates, swing bridges and cranes around the harbour. The large chimney from this system is still there. In 1907, the steam pumps were replaced with electric pumps, which are regularly run as demonstrations for visitors. There is a table map of the harbour, and also fascinating hands-on displays of how the underfalls work to keep the harbour water at a certain level, and also remove mud.
Underfall Yard is also a vibrant working boatyard, with a slipway, where boats are taken out of the water to be repaired. Businesses include boat builders, and marine engineering, riggers, a blacksmith and a maritime training academy.
There is no better place to relax on a sunny day on the outdoor terrace, drinking tea or something stronger, and watching the boats and paddle boarders out on the water.
Closure of the docks
During the 1900s, the docks function was gradually transferred to Avonmouth. In 1975, the city docks closed to commercial shipping. The reasons were many – the increasing size of ships, use of cargo containers, and the expansion of the docks at Avonmouth.
There was a plan to fill in sections of the harbour and build on the reclaimed land. Fortunately, this didn’t go ahead! Instead – the idea for turning the old docks into a regenerated Bristol Harbourside was born – with industrial buildings being redeveloped as art galleries, museums and restaurants. The floating harbour is now mainly used for leisure, and residential moorings.
SS Great Britain
A 5 minute stroll to the east, along the Bristol Harbourside walk, takes you to the SS Great Britain – one of Bristol’s top visitor attractions. There is also a carpark, and disabled access.
A visit to the ship is a living and breathing experience of what it was like to sail to New York in Victorian times, on the world’s first great ocean liner. It is a step back in time, where you can hear (and smell!) the real life stories of passengers in luxurious First Class cabins, cramped Steerage, as well as the staff in the kitchens and doctor’s surgery!
It has won many accolades – as one of the UK’s top ten museums by Trip Advisor 2017–18, and Europe’s Most Welcoming Museum, in the European Museum of the Year Awards 2019.
World first
The SS Great Britain was designed by legendary Bristol engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel (1806–1859), for the Great Western Steamship Company’s transatlantic service between Bristol and New York City. The design was revolutionary for that time. When completed in 1845, she was the first ship to combine an iron hull with screw propulsion, and at 98 metres (322 ft) in length she was more than 30 metres (100 ft) longer, and 1,000 tons larger than any ship previously built.
She was the first iron steamer to cross the Atlantic Ocean, which she did in 1845, in the time of 14 days. However – from the moment she was launched – it was her size which caused a series of mishaps and accidents.
Failure to launch
The ship’s past has been eventful to say the least! The day of her launch in July 1843, when she was to be floated out of Bristol harbour, was a festive occasion. Large crowds gathered for the arrival of the Royal guest, Prince Albert. There was a procession from Temple Meads station, with Bristol school children lining the route.
The naming ceremony was to be performed by Clarissa Miles, the wife of the steamship company director. However, a tug had accidentally started to tow the ship out of the dock, and when she swung the bottle of champagne at the bows, it missed, and dropped into the water! The Prince grabbed another bottle and hurled it against the iron hull.
The next problem, was getting the ship out of the harbour – she was too big! Brunel spent months negotiating with the Bristol Dock Board to modify the locks. Over a year later, in December 1844, she was at last floated out on a high tide. But even then, Brunel had to have coping stones and lock gate platforms removed, for her to be towed into the River Avon.
Unfortunate mishaps
For a year, she carried passengers across the Atlantic to New York, with a roll call of famous names, including investor John Paul Getty. However, her fame was short lived – she ran aground at Dundrum Bay in Northern Ireland, after a navigation error by the Captain.
In 1852, she was sold as salvage, repaired, and for the next 30 years – she carried thousands of immigrants to Australia. In 1881, the steam propellor engine was removed, and she was converted to a sailing ship. She served as a troop ship in the Crimean War and the Indian Mutiny.
Her next role was as a cargo ship, carrying coal. However, in 1886, on a voyage from South Wales to Panama, there was a fire on board, and when she arrived at the Falkland Islands, it was decided that she was damaged beyond economic repair. In 1937, after being used as a floating coal bunker, she was scuttled and abandoned!
Homecoming
Fast forward to 1970 – businessman and philanthropist, Sir Jack Hayward OBE, paid for the old ship to be repaired. She was now a rusty shadow of her former self, and needed to be seaworthy enough to be towed across the Atlantic. At last she was on her way back to the Bristol Harbourside – returning to the dry dock where she had been built 127 years earlier.
It was an emotional moment for the city – with thousands of people lining the banks of the River Avon, and the walkways of the Suspension Bridge, to see her homecoming.
M Shed
A short walk to the east of the SS Great Britain, you’ll find the M Shed, a museum charting the history of Bristol. Originally the building was a 1950s goods transit shed, along with many others lining the quayside, named by the Docks Authority after letters in the alphabet.
As you approach the museum – you’ll notice that the most striking exhibits are the four cranes on the quayside. And on some weekends, the cranes are operated for visitors. The cranes are electrically powered, built in 1951 by Stothert & Pitt. When the harbourside was a fully working dock, there were over 50 cranes like these, lining the quaysides.
Along the quayside to the west, is a much older Fairbairn steam crane, built in 1878. It was in use until 1973, loading and unloading ships and railway wagons, with loads of up to 35 tons. Steam locomotives and rolling stock have also been restored, and train rides for the public are offered on some weekends.
A collection of historic vessels is moored in front of the M Shed, including Pyronaut, a 1935 fireboat, and two tugs, John King, built in 1935, and Mayflower, the world’s oldest surviving steam tug, built in 1861. These are also open to visitors on some weekends.
The Story of Bristol
Inside the museum are three main galleries, which tell the story of Bristol and its people, since prehistoric times. These include stories and films from wartime, original models of Wallace and Gromit, and pink spray painted record decks from Massive Attack. On display are newspaper articles from the city’s landmark political moments, including the fight against racial prejudice in 1963, when West Indian workers led a bus boycott after the Bristol Omnibus Company refused to recruit black workers.
In June 2021, the toppled statue of slave trader Edward Colston, was put on display, to “start a city-wide conversation about its future.” I’ve written more about Colston and Bristol’s involvement with the cruel Atlantic slave trade in my main article about Bristol. And coming soon will be a post about the Bristol Slave Trade walking tour, which shows key locations linked to the horrific trade, and the buildings built from the profits.
The museum also hosts changing exhibitions every year, including Wildlife Photographer of the Year, and recently, Vanguard, about the history of graffitti art in the city. For more information on events and exhibitions at the M Shed, check out their website.
Behind the M-Shed is a collection of shipping containers, called Cargo, which is home to a host of indie shops and eateries.
The Matthew
You’ll also notice a very old wooden boat moored at Princes Wharf, or sailing around the harbour. The Matthew is a replica of the ship historically claimed to be the first European vessel to make landfall on the American continent in 1497, sailed by John Cabot, who was originally from Venice.
Cabot believed that Asia would be found a few thousands miles across the sea from Europe. He planned to reach the Orient by sailing across the northern part of the Atlantic, and establish a sea route for trade in silks and spices. He left Bristol on the Matthew in May 1497, and made landfall on Newfoundland on 24th June, and thought it belonged to the Emperor of China!
However, Cabot was not the first European to reach North America – Norse sailors had visited 500 years before. Researchers also believe that sailors from Bristol landed in Newfoundland, as part of their fishing trips – drying cod there before sailing homeward. His voyage was celebrated, as he explored and charted the coast, which provided evidence that there was a large continent between Europe and the Orient. Cabot didn’t meet any indigenous Americans on his voyage, however, he did discover artefacts that probably belonged to the nomadic Beothuk people.
The Matthew is now used for educational trips – for learning about life as a mariner in Tudor Times. In the summer months, you can go on a cruise around the harbour and along the River Avon, with a cream tea or fish and chips.
Art Centres
A short stroll across the Princes St bridge takes you to the North side of the harbour, where there is a statue of John Cabot. The large converted warehouse is the Arnolfini – Bristol’s International Centre for Contemporary Arts, which recently celebrated its 60th birthday. It was founded in 1961 by visionary couple, Jeremy and Annabel Rees, who wanted to bring contemporary art to Bristol. The centre hosts exhibitions, films and live performances.
Walk across Pero’s Bridge, named after Pero Jones, the African slave who was brought to Bristol in 1873, by plantation owner John Pinney, when he moved to the city. To your right is the Watershed, an arts centre which screens independent films, and hosts creative events and festivals. Further west is Millenium Square, where the Bristol Aquarium, and We the Curious, a hands-on science centre are located.
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