These days if you say you’re visiting Glastonbury, people immediately assume you mean the festival, the biggest music event in the world. Many visitors don’t even realise that the festival is named after a small market town in Somerset, steeped in myth and history dating back thousands of years. I feel a special connection with this place, as my grandmother spent her childhood on a farm in the nearby village of Butleigh, back in the late 19th century. So you could say that the Glastonbury spirit runs in my veins!
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Magic mountain
As you drive toward Glastonbury, the view of Glastonbury Tor as it appears over the horizon can feel breathtaking. Geologists have theorised that it is a natural feature, however, they haven’t come up with a reason for why it survived the erosion of the surrounding land.
Over the years, it has been called a magic mountain, a faeries’ glass hill, a Grail castle, the Land of the Dead, a Druid initiaiton centre, an Arthurian hill-fort, a magnetic power-point, a crossroads of leylines, a place of Goddess fertility rituals, and converging point for UFOs.
No matter what one believes, there is something remarkable about this 500-foot conical hill, rising above the surrounding Somerset Levels. Climbing the Tor is breathtaking, with panoramic views stretching hundreds of miles across the South West, and over the Bristol Channel to the Black Mountains in Wales.
Isle of Avalon
Thousands of years ago, the Tor literally sat on an island, surrounded by the waters of the Bristol Channel. It was named the Isle of Avalon, which has different meanings, either the name of a Celtic god who ruled the underworld, or an apple orchard.
In time, the seawater receded, leaving freshwater marshland which has now been drained, to create farmland. In 1892, excavations revealed an Iron Age Lake Village, built on raised mounds in the marshes.
Ancient labyrinth
As you walk up the Tor, notice the spiralling tiers, which have posed yet another question about its history. Some historians say that the tiers were created as field terraces for growing crops, which were common in the Middle Ages.
However, there are other theories that they are an ancient labyrinth. In her book, Glastonbury – Maker of Myths , Frances Howard-Gordon, writes that the labyrinth pattern on Glastonbury Tor is similar to Cretan labyrinths, and would have been created for ritual purposes.
She writes, “Labyrinths are deeply symbolic, their most usual interpretation being that of the soul’s journey through life, death and rebirth. The seven-circuit Tor labyrinth would probably have been made and threaded during the time of the goddess religion.” (p.10)
She adds that when archaeologist Philip Rahtz excavated the summit of the Tor in the early 1960s, he didn’t commit to the concept that it was human-made, however if it was, its probable date was second or third millenium BC. Five thousand years ago!!
Church ruins
With such a rich history as a spiritual centre, its not surprising that early Christians built a church at the top of the Tor. Archaeological finds include a wheel headed cross, and food remains suggest that there was a hermitage established here at this time.
The first Church on the Tor was built around the early 13th century, dedicated to St Michael. It was common in that time for Churches built on previous religious sites to be dedicated to St Michael, as he was seen as a dragon slayer, a deterrant to pagan celebration.
In 1275, the church was destroyed in an earthquake. Another church was built in the 14th Century, and the tower is now all that remains of it.
Goddess worship
In recent years, the town has become a hub for the Goddess philosophy, attracting followers from across the globe. Evidence of Goddess worship, meaning an emphasis on the Divine Feminine, has been found across Europe, dating back to the fifth millennium BC. Carvings and figurines of the female form have been found extensively, with a relative lack of male carvings.
The belief focusses on the seasons and balance of nature, and the importance of the earth as mother, with hills and mountains seen as her throne on earth. Many believers in Goddess worship view the Tor as a ceremonial site, as the spiral of the terraces is a symbol found in many early Goddess images.
Later, as hunter-gatherer societies flourished, and new religions swept in from the East, the Goddess religion was suppressed, in favour of male dominated belief systems.
Glastonbury Abbey
The iconic ruins of Glastonbury Abbey are found in the centre of the town. It is recorded as the first above-ground church in all of Christendom, and oldest religious site in the British Isles.
It is said that in AD 63, Joseph of Arimathea, together with twelve followers, built a wattle church on the site. It was developed into a monastery, attracting pilgrims from across Europe, and missionaries from Rome.
According to legend, he is buried in the abbey grounds, and a prophecy by a Welsh bard in the 6th century, translated from Latin, states that he brought with him a chalice holding the blood of the crucifiction.
He wrote, ‘Joseph has with him in the tomb two white and silver vessels filled with the blood and sweat of the prophet Jesus. When his tomb is found, it will be seen whole and undefiled in the future, and will be open to the earth. From then on, neither water nor heavenly dew will be able to be lacking for those who inhabit the most holy island.’
Abbey in ruins
In 1184, the abbey was destroyed by a fire. It was later rebuilt by Henry II, however, when Henry VIII ordered the dissolution of the monasteries, the sixtieth abbott was hung, drawn and quartered on the top of the Tor. The abbey was torn down and materials sold off for building roads. It has remained in ruins ever since.
The abbey has attracted many archaeologists and dowsers looking at the history of the site. The ancient science of geomancy is based ont the idea that the earth has a nervous system made up of underground rivers, veins of ore and streams of terrestrial current. Theories have been put forward that every prehistoric monument, such as the Tor, was situated at a centre of terrestrial energy.
The abbey site could have been used to help generate this energy, using special stones. An egg-stone was discovered in the grounds of the abbey in the early 20th century, which many believe is evidence that the site was a former pagan shrine, and a centre of earth energy lines.
The Holy Thorn
The Holy Thorn of Wearyall Hill is one of Glastonbury’s most famous relics. It is said that Joseph of Arimathea carried a thorn staff from Palestine, and staked it in the ground on the hill, where it took root and grew as a flowering hawthorn tree.
The original tree died, however, cuttings taken have grown in other parts of the town. It is unusual, as it flowers in May and at Christmas. A flowering sprig is sent to the British monarch every festive season.
King Arthur
Glastonbury has long been connected to the fables of King Arthur, and the Knights of the Round Table. In 1191, monks claim to have discovered the graves of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere, the legendary rulers of post-Roman Britain, in the abbey cemetery. It’s said that the bones found were reinterred in the abbey church.
The stories of this legendary ruler are found throughout the Glastonbury area. The oldest story is told by a monk called Caradoc, who taught that Queen Guinevere was kidnapped and held in a fortress at the top of the Tor. Avalon was also said to be the home of Celtic goddess Morgan le Fay, regarded as Arthurs’ sister, who was the Lady of the Lake. In her bestselling novel, Mists of Avalon, author Marion Zimmer Bradley tells the Arthurian legends from the viewpoint of the women.
There is a place on the River Brue where legend has it that the knight Bedivere threw Arthur’s magical sword Excalibur into the river. Thomas Malory’s Morte D’Arthur, written in the 15th century, mentions a spring, thought to be Chalice Well, where Lancelot and other knights retired to after battles.
The Chalice Well
The Chalice Well is a short walk from the High Street, set in beautiful gardens. It is said to be one of the oldest holy wells in Britain in continuous use. The source of the water is unknown, but is thought to be in the Mendip Hills, to the north. The water has a high iron content, giving the water a reddish colour.
According to legend, Joseph of Arimathea brought the Chalice of the Last Supper to Glastonbury in AD 37. It is said that he buried it in the earth by the well, and as the water runs through the chalice, it takes on a red tint, as it mixes with the blood of Christ. There is evidence of an early anchorite sanctury at the well, for an ascetic Christian hermit, who would have looked after the waters.
In 1907, spiritualist and visionary Wellesley Tudor Pole had a dream about a glass bowl near the well. He dug down in the place of the prophecy, and discovered a blue glass bowl. He showed it to British Museum experts, who were baffled by it. And the British press called it the discovery of the Holy Grail.
I was surprised to discover that Tudor Pole kept the bowl in a dedicated room in his house in Royal York Crescent, Clifton, which he called the Oratory. This was opposite the house where I grew up in York Gardens, so it’s amazing to think that all those years before, this legendary chalice was kept there. Special services were held, attracting people from across the world, including the founder of the Baha’i faith. In 1959, he purchased the Chalice Well, and set up a Trust. The bowl was eventually transferred to the Well, where it is securely kept. You can read more about Tudor Pole’s time in Bristol in my article on Clifton Village.
It is also worth visiting The White Spring, found opposite the Chalice Well. It is named after the deposits of white calcite formed on the exposed limestone, and contains a low iron content.
High Street
It’s not surprising that the shops which line the High Street reflect the town’s aura of myth and legend. They are all independent shops, selling mythological and esoteric books, magic talismen and mystic ornaments. You won’t see any chain coffee shops, or designer clothes stores here! There is also a large wholefood food store, selling an array of organic and health food products.
While chatting to the owner of a bookshop about Glastonbury, he described it as being like a New Age circus or pantomine. And it does feel abit like that – wandering around the town I saw people dressed in all sorts of robes and costumes while going about their daily shopping and chores!
The influx of people, seeking spirituality and alternative ways of living, has led to a vibrant energy in the town. It has become a centre for so- called New Age tourism, with visitors attracted by the healing therapies, workshops, and pagan celebrations.
There are also environmental projects pioneered in the area, with communes, eco-villages, permaculture, yurts and straw-bale houses. Workshops are regularly held for people interested in learning more.
George & Pilgrims Inn
When Glastonbury Abbey was still standing, it attracted pilgrims from all over Britain and Ireland. A house for paying guests was set up in 1475 outside the Abbey walls, called The George or The Pilgrim’s Inn. It had an underground tunnel from the cellar to the Abbey. Amazingly the building is still there!
The George & Pilgrims Inn is a fascinating place, with mullion windows, Dutch Delft tiles and medieval-style chairs. You can choose to stay in the Nun’s Cell, the Confessional, or rooms named after Abbot Beere or Henry VIII. But beware of strange noises and unearthly visions in the night!
Glastonbury Festival
Glastonbury, as the oldest and holiest of England’s spiritual centres, has always attracted visitors, and maybe the crowds of people going to the festival are no different. Modern seekers of a mystic experience.
The first Glastonbury Festival dates back to 1914, when festivals of music and drama were held in the Assembly Rooms. It was established by British composer Rutland Boughton, and became the model for festivals such as Aldburgh and Glyndebourne. Boughton wrote a series of musical dramas based on Arthurian legends, performed by the Glastonbury Players. Visitors and performers at the festival included such big names as Edward Elgar, Vaughan Williams, Thomas Hardy and D H Lawrence.
In 1971, a festival was held to celebrate the summer solstice, with a pyramid stage built to sacred number proportions. And so the Glastonbury Festival as we know it today was born, growing in size, year on year, in the fields of the Michael Eavis’s farm in Pilton. It has become the largest outdoor music and arts festival in the world, attracting famous names in the music industry, with over 180 thousand people descending on the fields each June.
